Color Fastness
The resistance of a fabric's colour to fading or bleeding when exposed to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, and other conditions.
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What is Color Fastness?
Colour fastness (or colourfastness) measures how well a fabric retains its colour under various conditions. It is one of the most critical quality parameters in fashion — poor colour fastness leads to fading, bleeding, staining of adjacent fabrics, and customer complaints.
Types of colour fastness tests:
- Wash fastness: Resistance to colour change and staining during washing (ISO 105 C06)
- Light fastness: Resistance to fading from sunlight/UV exposure (ISO 105 B02)
- Rubbing fastness (crocking): Resistance to colour transfer from rubbing — dry and wet (ISO 105 X12)
- Perspiration fastness: Resistance to colour change from sweat — acid and alkaline (ISO 105 E04)
- Water fastness: Resistance to colour change from water exposure (ISO 105 E01)
Rating scale:
Colour fastness is measured on a 1–5 grey scale:
- 5: Excellent — no change
- 4: Good — slight change
- 3: Fair — noticeable change
- 2: Poor — considerable change
- 1: Very poor — extensive change
Acceptable standards:
- Wash fastness: 3–4 minimum for most fashion products; 4–5 for premium
- Light fastness: 4+ for outdoor/summer wear
- Rubbing fastness: 3–4 dry; 2–3 wet (wet is always lower)
- Perspiration: 3–4 minimum
Why This Matters for Fashion Entrepreneurs
Colour fastness failures are one of the top reasons for customer complaints and returns in Indian e-commerce. A single batch of bleeding or fading garments can damage your brand reputation significantly.
Preventive steps:
- Test before bulk: Request colour fastness test reports from your fabric supplier or get independent testing
- Specify standards in purchase orders: Include minimum fastness ratings in your fabric purchase specifications
- Test after garment washing: Washing processes can alter colour fastness — test the finished product, not just the fabric
- Educate customers: Include care labels with specific washing instructions to prevent avoidable colour issues
Highest-risk categories:
- Dark colours (navy, black, red) on light fabrics — bleeding risk
- Natural dyes — inherently lower wash fastness
- Bright/neon colours — lower light fastness
- Pigment-printed fabrics — lower rubbing fastness
Sourcing Guide
Colour fastness testing labs in India:
- ATIRA (Ahmedabad Textile Industry's Research Association): Comprehensive testing
- BTRA (Bombay Textile Research Association): Mumbai-based testing
- SITRA (South India Textile Research Association, Coimbatore): Testing for southern mills
- SGS, Bureau Veritas, Intertek: International labs with Indian offices
- TUV: Testing with international accreditation
Cost of testing:
- Individual test (wash/light/rubbing): ₹500–1,500 per test
- Comprehensive colour fastness panel: ₹3,000–8,000
- Turnaround: 3–7 working days
Pricing & Costs
Colour fastness testing costs:
- Single test (e.g., wash fastness): ₹500–1,500
- Full colour fastness panel (5–6 tests): ₹3,000–8,000
- Rush testing (1–2 days): 50–100% surcharge
- Ongoing testing (per lot/per colour): Negotiate annual contracts for 20–30% discount
Prevention is always cheaper than cure. Testing costs ₹3,000–8,000 per fabric. A colour failure in a 500-piece production run costs ₹50,000–2,00,000 in rejections, re-dyeing, and lost sales.
Frequently Asked Questions
For most commercial fashion: wash fastness 4+, rubbing fastness 3–4 dry / 2–3 wet, light fastness 4+ for light colours and outdoor wear. For children's wear: higher standards — 4+ across all tests. For export (US/EU): buyers typically specify ISO or AATCC standards. Always specify your requirements in writing — do not assume "standard quality" means the same thing to you and your supplier.
Dark colours require more dye, and excess unfixed dye molecules remain on the fabric surface. These loose dye molecules transfer during washing (bleeding) or rubbing (crocking). Solutions: (1) Request "reactive-dyed" cotton (better fixation than direct dyes), (2) Specify washing-off after dyeing to remove unfixed dye, (3) Garment-wash before selling to remove excess dye, (4) Include "wash separately first time" on care labels.
Generally yes. Natural dyes typically achieve wash fastness of 2–3 (vs 4–5 for synthetic reactive dyes) and lower light fastness. However, proper mordanting (fixing agents like alum, iron, tannin) significantly improves natural dye fastness. If your brand uses natural dyes, be transparent with customers about colour evolution over time — many heritage consumers appreciate the gradual patina.
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