Lab Dip
A small fabric swatch dyed to match a specified colour standard, used to approve colour accuracy before bulk fabric dyeing begins.
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What is Lab Dip?
A lab dip is a small swatch of fabric (typically 10×10 cm to 30×30 cm) that is dyed in a laboratory setting to match a specific colour standard — usually a Pantone reference, a physical fabric swatch, or a digital colour specification. Lab dips are the colour approval step before committing to bulk fabric dyeing.
Why lab dips matter:
- Fabric absorbs dye differently depending on fibre content, weave, and finish
- The same Pantone colour looks different on cotton, silk, polyester, and blends
- Colour perception changes under different lighting (metamerism)
- Bulk re-dyeing is expensive and time-consuming — getting it right at the lab dip stage prevents costly errors
The lab dip process:
- Brand provides colour reference (Pantone code, physical swatch, or fabric sample)
- Dye house creates 3–5 lab dips with slight variations
- Brand evaluates under standard lighting (D65 daylight, TL84 store light)
- Brand approves one dip or requests adjustment
- Approved lab dip becomes the production colour standard
- Bulk dyeing follows the approved lab dip recipe
Industry standards:
- Delta E (ΔE): Colour difference measurement. ΔE < 1.0 is excellent; < 1.5 is commercially acceptable
- Light box evaluation: Lab dips should be checked under controlled lighting, not random room light
- Metamerism check: Verify colour matches under multiple light sources
Why This Matters for Fashion Entrepreneurs
Lab dips seem like a minor technical step, but colour mismatches are one of the top reasons for production rejections and customer returns. Never skip the lab dip process.
Common mistakes:
- Approving from photos: Never approve colours from phone/screen photos — always evaluate physical swatches
- Skipping light box evaluation: Colours look different under different lights — use standardised lighting
- Not checking metamerism: A colour that matches under daylight may look different under store fluorescent lighting
- Rushing approval: Pressure to speed up production leads to approving "close enough" colours that cause problems later
Practical tips:
- Always request 3–5 lab dip options from your dye house
- Keep an approved lab dip swatch library for repeat orders
- Use Pantone TCX (textile) references, not Pantone C (print) — colours differ between systems
Sourcing Guide
Lab dip services in India:
- Tirupur: Most dyeing mills offer lab dip services (usually free with bulk order commitment)
- Surat: Polyester and synthetic fabric lab dips
- Ahmedabad: Cotton and blend fabric dyeing labs
- Ludhiana: Knit fabric lab dips
What to expect:
- Lab dip turnaround: 3–7 days
- Number of iterations: 1–3 rounds typically
- Cost: Often free with bulk order, or ₹200–500 per colour per fabric
- Request lab dips on the ACTUAL production fabric, not a substitute
Questions to ask your dye house:
- What is your typical ΔE tolerance?
- Do you provide colour fastness data with lab dips?
- Can you match to both Pantone and physical swatches?
- What is your minimum dyeing lot size?
Pricing & Costs
Lab dip costs:
- Lab dip (per colour, per fabric): ₹200–500 (often waived for bulk orders)
- Express lab dip (1–2 day turnaround): ₹500–1,000
- Colour fastness testing: ₹500–2,000 per test
- Spectrophotometer reading (ΔE): ₹200–500 per sample
Lab dips are negligible costs relative to the ₹50,000–5,00,000+ of bulk fabric they protect. Never skip them to save time or money.
Frequently Asked Questions
Typically 1–2 rounds for standard colours (blacks, navies, whites). 2–3 rounds for specific brand colours or difficult shades (pastels, neons, exact Pantone matches). If you are still not matching after 3 rounds, the issue may be the fabric substrate — some fibres physically cannot achieve certain colours. Budget 1–2 weeks for the lab dip approval process in your production timeline.
No — this is the most common colour approval mistake. Phone cameras, screen calibration, and lighting all distort colour. Always request physical lab dip swatches sent by courier. If you must do preliminary review digitally, request photos taken under D65 light with a grey card reference. But final approval must be on physical swatches.
This is metamerism — colours appearing different under different light sources. To prevent it: (1) Always check lab dips under at least 2 light sources (daylight D65 and store light TL84), (2) Ask your dye house to minimise metamerism in the dye recipe, (3) For critical colours, request a spectrophotometer reading showing ΔE under multiple illuminants.
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